1 of 1 people found this helpful
Hi tanyamarie1, If you are growing indoors with the TG and using the stock nutrient pump timer, there is a very good chance your rockwool is indeed too wet. Unfortunately, increasing the Off time will do little to fix the issue... as the problem is the 15 minute On time. If you stick with the stock timer, the recommend timing (and the best you can hope to achieve) is 15 minutes On, 30-45 minutes Off. Increasing the Off time beyond 45 minutes (way too along already in my personal opinion) will cause more problems than it solves.
Thanks. They are getting dryer. I think that I put too much water in the seedling tray.
With regard to the 15 minutes on, 30-45 off question. I live in northern desert area where it's somewhat windy, humidity is dry and temperatures are often above 100 degF in the summer. This past summer I ran 15 minutes on, 1 1/2 hours off during the day and 2 hours off between 9pm and 6am. Rock wool always stayed moist. Plants thrived compared to prior 3 years -- biggest crop ever of tomatoes, basil, parsley, thyme, and marigolds. Used close to 2 gallons of liquid a day. Just didn't feel like adding liquid twice a day, which is why I watered less often than recommended. In other words, my experience runs counter to your advice, but it worked for me..
1 of 1 people found this helpful
HI jerrimain, After seedlings mature in a TG, it's more about nutrient / water delivery rates & frequency to the roots then it is to the rockwool starter plug. If your configuration is meeting your expectations then no point in changing it. However, if you ever want to explore optimal and efficient nutrient / water delivery in the TG, give 1-3 minutes On, 5-12 minutes Off a try some day. If you think you have awesome results now, wel... hold on to your hat. LOL ;-)
Hi. I'm thinking about ordering the Hytimer you mention, but I wonder if all that turning off and on will shorten the life of the pump. And why does changing the on/off duration (away from 15/45) make a difference in growth rates? I've heard that it does, but would like to understand why!
1 of 1 people found this helpful
"I wonder if all that turning off and on will shorten the life of the pump"
A very short, over-simplified, context specific answer is: No.
There are many factors, such as "duty cycle" (the device On time expressed as a percentage of total time), that go into determining a pump's life expectancy rating. It's a rather complicated discussion (and off-topic for this forum). I will say that typical life expectancy for the various nutrient pumps used in the TG system over the years is in the tens-of-thousands of hours. It may help put this all into perspective for you by knowing that I have personally been running a long term test of these high frequency, industry standard On/Off nutrient pump cycle times with the TG pumps since early 2014... Zero failures... Still goin' strong. ;-)
"why does changing the on/off duration (away from 15/45) make a difference in growth rates?"
Again, a rather complicated topic... It has a lot to do with how high and/or low pressure aeroponic systems function. In short, it's all about obtaining an optimal water/nutrient/oxygen ratio at the root system. The ultimate goal is to achieve a pump cycle On time that starts just before the roots have dried-out from the previous Off cycle. This will encourage the fastest absorption of nutrients through the root cell walls.
Hi Jerrimain. This may be a silly question, but was your tower indoors or outdoors? I live in the Mid-West with high-moist humidity. I am just starting my tower in my dining room.
My tower is an outside tower. No experience with indoor towers, but it
sounds like there are a lot of indoors towers at the website. Have fun
I'm starting an indoor one as well. Just "trial fitting" my tower now. I put it mostly together and I'm trying it in different locations in my home. Plus, I haven't planned it out yet so no rush. Still deciding what to grow.Not as easy as I thought it'd be.
Hi. I am new to Tower Gardening myself. Have a few plants started but have not filled the reservoir yet. My tower is in a corner of my Breakfast room with a window on each side. Will put grow lights on the inside side. Ordinary pole lamp with grow bulbs in the sockets. It is certainly not as easy as I thought it would be either. A lot of chemistry with the nutrients and PH requirements for the plants. Need to watch the videos on setting it up to get a better idea of how to do it.
Don't let yourself get overwhelmed. It's not as difficult as it all sounds. I mean, you can get away with a lot in the tower. Things don't have to be exact and you will get decent results. However, what joed and others are teaching, is how to get consistent and improved results. They have the experience because they've been doing this longer than many of us. From reading joed bio, he's got the education behind it too. We have the chance to learn from their knowledge and mistakes to obtain the best results possible without losses and problems that could come about.
Most of what you'll hear on these forums is the result of taking the basics, fine-tuning techniques and educating members with more in-depth knowledge about what, why and how things happen. When you know these things, you can make adjustments on your end to suit your specific growing needs and environment.
Just keep reading, the Tower Garden Blog, ask questions on these forums and read the documents in TG Tech
1 of 1 people found this helpful
Hi happyfood, Baby Steps... ;-)
Start with this... and forget the rest (for now):
Have finally gotten everything together. Pump world fine, timer works fine but have added 3 tsp of PH+ to the tub and still have a 4 PH. Can I add more at a time, like a 1/4 or 1/2 cup of the PH+? Am afraid I will run out of test solution before I get it right.
Any help you can give me will be appreciated.
Will it kill the plants to run the pump with it that acid? Or do I have it backward and the 4 is basic and I should be adding the PH_-? As you can tell I am not a chemist and am muchly confused.
1 of 1 people found this helpful
Hi happyfood, If your pH is locked down at 4.0 then there is something wrong. And NO... you should not resort to extreme pH changes - it will adversely affect your plants (they are very susceptible to fast pH changes)... as will adding large amounts of pH adjustment solution. It is difficult for me (beings I am way over here on the other side of the Internet) to identify the cause of your extremely low pH. I can say that the three most common causes of this issue are 1) Improper mixing of the nutrient solution (which includes mixing it too quickly or in less than 5-gallon increments). 2) Issues with the source water chemistry. 3) Both 1 & 2.
If you haven't already, you may want to have a look at the following:
How to Mix TG Nutrients
JoeD's TGTip 0001
MINIMUM WATER FILTRATION
Always filter your TG water... regardless of the source.
(read that again)
At a minimum, the water filter you use should have sediment + carbon + KDF filter elements. The filter I usually recommend that meets those requirements is:
Camco 40043 TastePURE Water Filter w/ Flexible Hose
Replacement Cartridges: Camco Water Filter, 2 Pack
- READ AND FOLLOW ALL FILTER INSTRUCTIONS.
- The slower water passes through the filter, the better the filter works.
- Always start a new growing season with a fresh filter cartridge.
Be sure to check out TG Tech | Content | Documents for additional TG information!
JoeD's TGTip 0005
MEASURING NUTRIENT SOLUTION PH
Always keep your TG nutrient solution pH in the 5.5 to 6.0 range. Test nutrient solution pH on a regular, frequent basis (absolute recommended minimum is once a week). Always test pH with a kit or device designed for use with hydroponics systems (i.e. no pool supply test kits). Don’t use pH test “strips”. Here are some recommendations:
TG pH Test Kits:
GH pH Test Kit:
GH pH Adjustment Solutions:
If you really want to up your pH testing game then consider upgrading to a digital pH Meter setup…
Oakton EcoTestr pH 2+ Pocket pH Meter:
pH Meter Accessories...
Calibration & Storage Solutions:
(bottles last a long time)
(more than you'll ever need - but it's an awesome deal)
Thanks for the prompt reply. Am afraid I really screwed up the filling
process. I have a small pitcher carbon filter and it filtered all of the
almost 20 gallons. I think it is shot but the TDS meter only reads 004. The
whole tub read 006. But I had filled it 2/3 full when I put in the A
nutrient, waited 30 min then put in the B nutrient, and plugged in the pump
as I finished filling the tub. The timer is set on 15 and off 30 and I did
not think it was working after I plugged it in but I was surprised when it
actually started pumping. Guess I will have to start over with all new
water. Our city water has a lot of chlorine, or maybe that other chlorine
so definitely must be filtered. Will try the five gallon bucket route,
mixing 100 ml of each nutrient in each bucket following your schedule in
the Mixing Nutrient Solution guide.
I live in a small town in GA surrounded by farms. This is a rural farming
community so I thought I would try to use some of the rainwater (about 4
gallons worth). I strained it then put it through the little filter. Of
course the TDS meter and the PH meter do not tell me what chemicals and
pollutants are in any of the water sources I have.
Would commercial bottled water be better and would it have to be filtered?
Neither link for the filter worked from email so I will log on to TG and
click on it there.
Thanks again for you time and advice. It certainly is not as easy as the
book that came with the TG sounds. They leave a lot of details out.
On Wed, Nov 22, 2017 at 11:17 AM, joed <email@example.com>
I checked out the Camco water filter recommended in Amazon. What good does
this type of filter do me in the house? I have no faucet that I can hook a
hose to. Well maybe the one in the utility room but that is a long way from
the TG. I can't lift 3 gallons of water, let alone 5 so filling buckets
outside and then carrying them into the house is not possible. I could take
the screen off the window and hookup to the faucet under the window but
then the house fills up with gnats and mosquitoes. Can you recommend
another filter that I can install in one of the sinks?
Could my problem have anything to do with my only putting in 200 ml of each
nutrient solution, as directed in the instructions that came with the TG?
If I mix 100 ml in each of 4 - 5 gal buckets that is 400ml, of each, which
is full strength.
Finally thought to check the pH of each water source: rainwater was basic, tap water was basic but the water out of the filter is pure acid! Do all filters put out acid water or is this one just past it's prime.
1 of 1 people found this helpful
Hi happyfood, Have a look at this thread (especially my response):
JoeD's Comments on Water Source, Filtration and De-Chlorination
I will add that is you use RO water, I recommend adding back about 5%-10% of pre-RO filtered water before mixing your nutrient solution. This has to do with nutrient solution formulations expecting some initial amount of mineral content in the raw source water so the final balance comes out right. RO filters take out just about everything - they do too good a job... so you need to put a little back.
Also, you may find this helpful...
Using an In-Line Water Filter Indoors
For indoor setups, I recommend the following:
Connect a quick-disconnect adapter, ex: http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=228724-30775-8821 to the sink, connect an inline sediment / carbon filter ex: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Water-Filter-with-Hose/14504321 to the adapter and connect a compact garden hose ex: http://www.lowes.com/pd_112315-47931-PUWE625B94H_1z0wg6x__?productId=1002991 -OR- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pocket-Hose-1-2-in-Dia-x-50-ft-Dura-Rib-Expanding-Hose-9946-6/206650986 to the filter. The use of a compact garden hose with a quick disconnect adapter makes for easy storage of the system when not in use.
Thank you JoeD. Have added these items to my shopping list. I had not seen
this response to my questions and have read all of the description of the
water filter this time. It does indeed have carbon in it so would probably
be easier for me to handle.
Lowes site does not carry that hose anymore but maybe they have one in the
store. Has to be 50' though. This time I measured. Don't want to have to
lug a 5 gallon pail of water that far so need a hose that will reach the
pail next to the TG. The Home Depot hose looked good too. Is a 50+ mile
round trip to either of those stores. They are one street apart so it is
easy to check them both out. Walmart is only a 40 mile round trip.
On Thu, Nov 23, 2017 at 10:29 AM, joed <firstname.lastname@example.org>
"Lowes site does not carry that hose anymore but maybe they have one in the store."
Collapsible / Expandable hoses are also available online from sources such as Amazon. Here is just one example:
"Don't want to have to lug a 5 gallon pail of water that far so need a hose that will reach the pail next to the TG."
Addressing your water transport concerns, you might look into a cheap 5-gallon "Igloo" type water cooler with wheels and a spigot. That way, you may be able to fill & mix the nutrient solution at the spigot / sink area and wheel the cooler over to the TG... then use a small pitcher to scoop the solution from the cooler and pour it into your TG. At the very least, using a cooler with wheels will reduce the length of hose needed... and the need to lift heavy 5-gallon containers. Here is just one example:
RE: Faucet Connections
If you have almost any sink or shower nearby you can connect a hose to it. I can use my shower head. I just remove the head and connect directly to the outlet pipe. Menards or Home Depot will have adapters to connect a hose to them. You can simply get one of those adapters, connect the Camco Filter to it then your hose and whammy! Tub supply line established. Problem solved.
BOOM! I'm just full of ideas.
Hope this helps.
I did find a place to connect a hose to in the house. Need at least a 25'
hose. Do have a 100' hose but it is a 3/4" one. I suppose they have
adapters to use larger hoses on smaller faucets. Did I mention that I am 82
and can barely lift a 3 gal bucket of water, let alone a 5 gal bucket, to
pore it into the tub.
Did you see my note that both sources of water were basic to begin with and
it was the filter that turned them into acid? Do not see where a filter
would be that much help. I guess it would get rid of contaminants. Wish I
had my son's well water. Best tasting unfiltered water ever.
Every time I add acid (I managed to over do the base and now need to go the
other way) the water tests more basic. That is with a digital pH meter as
well as the solution.
Also, the acid+ container leaks when I shake it yet the top is almost
impossible to get off. I have to push down and turn the bottle until the
top twists off. Have no trouble with the basic- container.
One other thing. At 15 min on and 45 off the rock wool is very wet, soggy
even. Should the pump be on 24/7 or just some of the day? Have an overhead
fan and can put a portable fan on the floor if necessary. Temp of water is
17.6 C. Room is 68 F.
On Fri, Nov 24, 2017 at 8:56 AM, dniezby <email@example.com>
I found a place to connect a hose to in the house. Need at least a 25' hose. Do have a 100' hose but it is a 3/4" one. I suppose they have adapters to use larger hoses on smaller faucets.
They do have adapters for seems like everything.
Did I mention that I am 82 and can barely lift a 3 gal bucket of water, let alone a 5 gal bucket, to pore it into the tub."
I think you mentioned this somewhere. Way to go.
I don't lift those big buckets either. I use a 1 gallon distilled water jug. I just make a lot of trips when filling up the tub. If I need to drain the reservoir I will use the same methods I used when used to drain my waterbed...back when I had one.
Did you see my note that both sources of water were basic to begin with and it was the filter that turned them into acid?
An activated carbon filter can lower the pH a bit because it will remove some minerals but it will also remove a good chunk of contaminants. This outweighs the pH change. We can fix that.
Do not see where a filter would be that much help. I guess it would get rid of contaminants.
This is precisely why you would use a filter.
Wish I had my son's well water. Best tasting unfiltered water ever.
LOL, I have no idea how you can drink that and think it's "best tasting". Hey, to each his own.
Every time I add acid (I managed to overdo the base and now need to go the other way) the water tests more basic. That is with a digital pH meter as well as the solution.
It sounds like you're just adding too much each time OR you're not testing it properly. I know you're using a pH meter but has it been calibrated? To do that, you need calibration solution. Those are available in powder and liquid forms. I recommend the liquid and it is available on Amazon for pretty cheap.
To test your water, scoop out 100ml of water then set in your meter and wait for the number to stop cycling. When it's steady, that's what your reading is.
If you have to make an adjustment, use only small amounts. It goes a long way. I only use 2.5ml at a time. That's 1/2 tsp. Then I mix and retest.
Also, the acid+ container leaks when I shake it yet the top is almost impossible to get off. I have to push down and turn the bottle until the top twists off. Have no trouble with the basic- container.
Mine leaks if I shake it and is also very difficult to get off. The cap surely sucks. Just be careful and when you finally get the lid off, just push the inside of the cap back in place. I don't know why that bottle has a bad cap but clearly, we're not alone.
One other thing. At 15 min on and 45 min off the Rockwool is very wet, soggy even. Should the pump be on 24/7 or just some of the day? Have an overhead fan and can put a portable fan on the floor if necessary. Temp of water is 17.6 C. Room is 68 F.
The pump should be set up on a timer. I'm also an indoor grower and I purchased a digital timer which allows me to set my water pump to 3 min on and 14min off. As joed stated to me, the Rockwool should appear to dry out before the water turns back on again. Depending on many factors, this may have to be adjusted but a digital timer will make this much easier. I love the timer that comes with the lights. It's perfect for devices that need to be on / off for long periods of time. (IE fans, lights etc)
Here is how I set up my timer. I use one timer plugged into another. Using the timer that comes with the lights has a great feature for this. One side of the power strip run according to the timer and the other side is always on. I plug the lights in the timer side and I plug in my digital timer (which runs my pump) into the always on side. Below is a photo of what I'm talking about. Timer is set to come on at 5am and off at 7pm
I hope these things help.
You did not address the question on the conflict in the amount of Mineral
solution to add - 200 ml of each total or 400 ml of each. If I do it by the
bucket that is only 50 ml each/bucket.
ps: have printed out both recommended documents. They certainly contain a
lot more info than the booklet that came with the TG but still are somewhat
confusing to a novice.
Thank you dniezby. It is encouraging to know that you are having trouble
with your Acid + bottle. Is it 3 drops or 5 to put in the 5 ml of tg water?
Directions that came with it said 5.
Believe me, my son's well water tastes a lot better than our city water.
Grew up on hard well water in another state.
Have already purchased two of those same digital timers. Have yet to try
them out. Right now the pump is off. It started to smell like it was
overheating. ??? Why would it do that - it is sitting in 66 or 67 degree F
Will set up the pump on one and the lights on the other, when I get a
system set up. I have spent so much so far that I can't afford to get the
light set and the cage.
Usually, when I add the acid I let it sit a bit and the pump comes on and
circulates the water. I figure it is pretty well mixed when I test it,
after at least 30 minutes. Have been adding a teaspoon at a time with
little change. I did calibrate the meter. It came with 3 powders. I mixed
up the 6.38 one and the 4.0 one. Seems to correlate with the drops. Will
try calibrating it again tomorrow. The instructions said to use distilled
water. Had a partial gallon but it tests acid. Shouldn't it have been 0.00?
If meter and drops are right TG is a little over 6.5 now. Will let the rock
wool, which is turning to mush, dry out a bit before I turn things on
Have a TDS meter that came with the water pitcher that I ran all 20 gallons
through. PPM is in the range they say in the fundamentals.
Thanks again for your help.
On Sat, Nov 25, 2017 at 6:08 PM, dniezby <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Hi happyfood, I assume since you are conversing with dniezby that you either did not see my direct answers to your questions or that you find them unacceptable. It would be helpful to me for future posts to know which one it is... Thanks.
I seem to have inadvertently stepped into a hornets nest. I think I am
capable of weighing the choices and following the instructions that work.
So far it has been mostly trial and error. I'm just too stubborn to start
over from scratch yet.
Just what, in his advice, do you object to? Seem like his timing is pretty
close to yours and we do need a different timer if we are going to do 1 min
on and 5 min off as you say in the Fundamentals. Does that apply to indoors
as well as outdoors?
I need all the help I can get with this project. I have a great deal to
learn and welcome advice and counsel from whomever cares to give it. Was
not aware that I was only supposed to talk to you.
Not so happyfood.
Hi happyfood, No hornets nest. I believe you have misunderstood my last query. Because you did not acknowledge my response to your question(s), I was simply asking if you a) received my response to your question(s) (I have encountered issues with this forum in the past where members have not received a response) -AND/OR- b) if you found any part of it unacceptable (so I can better tailor my future responses to members of this forum).
This has nothing to do with my opinion of other members responses to you... nor was I asked to provide such opinion.
It should go without saying that you are free to collect information and guidance from any/all sources and make decisions based on that information as you see fit.
Sorry for the confusion... I withdraw my a) & b) questions.
Sorry Joed. As you know I am very new to this system of growing things. Of
course you have been very helpful and patient with a rank beginner. Think I
have the pH at 6.0 now.
I have a new problem - tub is beginning to smell like a stagnate pond. Is
algae growing in there and if so what can I do about it short of emptying
it our and starting over. Seems like someone else had this problem so will
check back on the tower talk pages to see what you advised.
Also, the link for the filter took me to a fiber filter, not the carbon
one. Would the larger RO RV filter be better for me and should I get the
drinking water quality hose to go with it?
Thanks again for your help. I really do appreciate any help I get from
anyone in the community.
On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 8:07 AM, joed <email@example.com>
1 of 1 people found this helpful
"I have a new problem - tub is beginning to smell like a stagnate pond."
There could be several causes for this. The most common are any one or combination of the following:
- Microorganism growth.
- Algae growth.
- Nutrient pump timing issues (ex: long "Off" cycle).
- High nutrient solution temperature (> 75° F).
- Decaying / Decomposing organic matter.
- Low dissolved oxygen (DO) levels in the nutrient solution.
- Improper nutrient solution top-off / complete replacement schedule.
Because the rockwool was so wet I set pump for 15 min on and 1 hour off.
That is when the pump smelled like it was overheating and water started to
smell. Set it back to 15 on and 30 off and both smells went away.
Returned the timers. Finally got one set, plugged the lights into it but
it did not turn the lights on at all.
Thanks for the trouble shooting list. Will save it for future reference.
Hi happyfood, I highly recommend purchasing a professional grade nutrient pump timer. Keep your cycle times in the 1 to 3 minutes On, 5 to 12 minutes Off range.
One more 'beginner' question. Why do we not use ph test strips? 'Fraid I
have to know the why of things. That would be so much easier.
Also, any suggestions on how to go about draining the TG with the supplied
pipe would be most appreciated. I guess I could run it into those 5 gallon
buckets that I have then use the one gallon jugs to water the trees outside.
Did not find out that I should not be growing fruiting plants inside until
after I had started some of the seeds sent with the kit. Cucumbers are
doing well so far. The tomato is holding its own and I think the basil is
doing ok. The lettuce all died. Don't think they had very good roots when I
put them in the tower. I now have a pea plant on the top tier and a couple
of sweet potatoes. Do not plan on leaving the sweet potatoes there for
long. Will take them out and put them in a deep pot pretty soon. Just want
them to have a good start on roots.
Have returned the two timers so still need to get one that will do minutes.
Have acquired the Camco filter and some blue plant lights. Still looking
for some red ones.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments. I need all the help I
On Tue, Dec 5, 2017 at 5:47 AM, joed <firstname.lastname@example.org>
happyfood First things first. Let's make this easier for others to find in case they have the same question. Go to the bottom of your message, select Actions then Branch. It will take this question and create a new message thread.
Now, on to your question.
Because test strips are unreliable and inaccurate. The best and ONLY way that's truly recommended to test pH is a digital meter. They're cheap. Here is the one that I use.
To drain the tower garden tub with the drain tube, you simply connect that tube to the output of the pump and turn the pump on. Yes, using the water for outside trees and other plants would be a good use of the water.
I use an old water bed pump and pump out the entire 20gal in like 2 min. LOL. Here is a quick little video of me using the pump
It's not that you shouldn't grow flowering plants indoors, it's that it takes a little more effort. They don't get exposed to bees or other pollinators such as the wind.
I'm 100% indoors and I grow tomatoes and peppers. I grow bush varieties though. I don't grow vine plants. At least, not yet. Will take some prep to do something like that.
I've planted plants with and without roots coming through. It was most likely something else that killed your lettuce. Improper pH, lower / high nutrients etc. Without a complete detail of your set up, it's impossible to tell what caused it. Lettuce is pretty difficult to screw up. So, you really need to look at your set up and see what went wrong.
Pea plant should be fine. Not sure about that. The sweet potatoes, move them to a potato bag now. Don't put them in the tower. They can damage your tower. If you're growing from seed, you can germinate them in your seedling tray as you normally would germinate any plant then move them to the potato bag. If you're using seeding potatoes, just put the potatoes in the soil in your potato bag.
Do you not have the lighting kit FOR Tower Garden? Those lights come with the "blue" lights and you can add "red" bulbs to it. I use alternating light bulbs. Two Blue and Two Red.
Here is a "red" bulb that I recommend. It's a Viviosun T5 Grow Light. This one will fit in the Tower Garden branded lighting fixture.
I hope all of this helps. I hope I was able to answer everything correctly too. I'm no expert but I'm learning a lot really fast because of these forums.
"Have returned the two timers so still need to get one that will do minutes."
If you are looking for a high quality, professional grade timer with seconds, minutes and hours increments that will last a lifetime, I highly recommend this one:
HYTimer® - Advanced Wireless Repeat Cycle Timer for Hydroponic Systems
"any suggestions on how to go about draining the TG with the supplied pipe would be most appreciated."
You may find the following helpful:
How to Completely Replace TG Nutrient Solution
To replace the nutrient solution on a full grown TG that does not allow lifting or removal of the tower base from the tub, try this procedure:
- Turn the pump off.
- Reach into the tub access port and temporarily stick the pump to the tub sidewall with the inlet filter side (side opposite the power cord) pressed against the bottom of the tub.
- Connect the clear hose you got with the TG to the nipple at the very top / center of the TG.
- Turn the pump on and drain (into a large bucket, 5-gallon water cooler bottle, Igloo cooler with wheels or just to the ground as appropriate for the location).
- Continue until the pump flow stops.
- Turn the pump off.
At this point, I use a wet/dry vacuum (in wet mode) to remove the remaining nutrient solution and debris in the tub - this handy tip works great... well worth the cost of a cheap wet/dry vacuum if you don't have one. FYI: this is the one I use:
Harbor Freight - 5 gal. Wet/Dry Vacuum/Blower
Hi guys! Loved reading this post. Joed you said that if we're using the stock timer for indoor use 15 on and 45 off would leave the plants too wet, my rockwool is turning green with algae which I don't think is necessarily a bad thing, I have two question, can tower garden start furnishing a timer with fewer increments between cycles? "I.e. 5 min increments" and where can I get a timer that has less increments than 15 minutes? (Looked at Amazon but couldn't find any)
what would be the ideal water cycle for indoor growing at 65-80 degrees?
"can tower garden start furnishing a timer with fewer increments between cycles?"
I ask myself that very question every day. LOL -- I would recommend that you submit your excellent suggestion to JP+ corporate. They are always looking for feedback from their customer base that would make their product better.
"where can I get a timer that has less increments than 15 minutes?"
The timer I highly recommend is HYTimer® by Level2 Concepts: (http://www.level2concepts.com/hytimer). It's available on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/HYTimer-Wireless-Hydroponic-Repeat-Cycle/dp/B071SJNYX6) However, I would just order it directly off the L2C website.
"what would be the ideal water cycle for indoor growing at 65-80 degrees?"
First, I would strongly suggest that you do whatever possible to keep your nutrient solution temperature in 65° to 75° F range (favoring the lower end of that range). As for nutrient pump timing, I highly recommend starting with 1-minute On, 5-minutes Off and fine tune from there. However, I would advise you to keep the timing in the 1-3 minute On, 5-12 minute Off range. (BTW... that was 3 questions... LOL)
1 of 1 people found this helpful
I just bought a few of these.
I'm growing indoors too so I needed this precision.
1 of 1 people found this helpful
Hi dniezby, Just be careful with electronic devices like that timer... it is not waterproof. Also, it doesn't appear to be UL safety listed. Remember, with a hydroponic growing system, you will be in close proximity to water and electricity... Just sayin' ;-)